Why is sun protection not just a summer issue?
For many years, it was believed that sunscreen was a product reserved exclusively for holidays and beach trips. Modern dermatology and cosmetology leave no room for doubt, however: sun protection is the foundation of year-round skincare. The sunlight reaching us every day, regardless of the season, temperature, or degree of cloud cover, causes immediate cellular damage. Its visible effects include premature skin aging, loss of elasticity, and unsightly pigmentation.
A considered approach to skincare requires understanding that the sun emits different types of waves, which penetrate our tissues in different ways. Ignoring this fact and avoiding sunscreen on cloudy days is the most common mistake, undoing the effects of even the most expensive anti-aging serums or advanced in-office treatments.
UVA, UVB, and HEV radiation – get to know your enemy
To protect the skin effectively, we need to know exactly what we are protecting it from. The solar spectrum reaching Earth’s surface carries hazards with different characteristics.
UVB (Burn) – responsible for sunburn and erythema
UVB radiation accounts for approximately 5% of the total ultraviolet radiation reaching Earth. It has a short wavelength (280–320 nm) and penetrates mainly the outer layer of the skin – the epidermis. It is responsible for vitamin D synthesis, but also causes visible erythema, sunburn, and direct DNA damage to cells, dramatically increasing the risk of skin cancers, including melanoma. Its intensity varies depending on the season and time of day – it is strongest in summer, between 10:00 and 15:00.
UVA (Aging) – the silent collagen killer (penetrates glass!)
UVA accounts for as much as 95% of UV radiation. It has a longer wavelength (320–400 nm), allowing it to penetrate deep into the dermis. It acts insidiously: it does not hurt or cause immediate burns, but it destroys collagen and elastin fibers, generating huge amounts of free radicals. UVA radiation maintains a constant intensity throughout the year – it penetrates clouds and window and car glass. It is the main cause of photoaging (deep wrinkles and loss of firmness) and permanent pigmentation.
HEV light (Blue Light) – why does a smartphone also age the skin?
High Energy Visible Light (High Energy Visible Light), commonly known as “blue light,” is emitted both by the sun and by smartphone, laptop, and television screens. Studies show that HEV penetrates the skin more deeply than UV radiation, reaching the layers where fibroblasts are located. It induces intense oxidative stress, accelerates wrinkle formation, and exacerbates difficult-to-remove hyperpigmentation (melasma), especially in people with darker skin tones. That is why skin protection is also necessary when working in an office and in front of computer screens.
What do the SPF and PA abbreviations on cosmetic packaging mean?
When choosing a sunscreen product, we encounter parameters on the label that indicate the level of protection against specific types of radiation. Reading them correctly is key to making an informed purchase.
SPF (Sun Protection Factor) – protection against UVB
The SPF indicates a cosmetic product’s ability to protect the skin from sunburn caused by UVB radiation. Mathematically speaking, if redness appears on your skin after t minutes without sunscreen, then after applying SPF 30, this time theoretically extends to 30 × t. In practice, the protection levels are as follows:
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SPF 15 – blocks approximately 93% of UVB radiation.
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SPF 30 – blocks approximately 97% of UVB radiation.
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SPF 50 – provides the highest standard level of protection, blocking approximately 98% of UVB radiation.
No product provides 100% protection, which is why the difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50, although small in percentage terms, is crucial for sensitive, couperose-prone, or hyperpigmentation-prone skin.
PA scale – UVA protection
The PA system (Protection Grade of UVA) developed in Japan indicates the level of protection against UVA waves, based on the PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening) index. The protection level is expressed using plus signs:
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PA+ – low UVA protection.
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PA++ – moderate protection.
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PA+++ – high protection.
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PA++++ – extremely high protection (the most desirable for daily anti-aging skincare).
Types of sunscreens: Physical, chemical, and new-generation
Photoprotective substances are divided into groups according to their chemical structure and mechanism of action on the skin.
| Feature / Filter Type | Physical (Mineral) Filters | Traditional Chemical Filters | New-Generation Filters (Stable) |
| Key representatives | Zinc oxide (Zinc Oxide), Titanium dioxide (Titanium Dioxide). | Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Oxybenzone. | Tinosorb M, Tinosorb S, Uvinul A Plus, Mexoryl XL. |
| Mechanism of action | They act like micro-mirrors, reflecting and scattering UV rays on the skin's surface. | They absorb solar radiation energy and convert it into harmless heat. | They combine the properties of chemical and physical filters: they strongly absorb and partially reflect UV radiation. |
| Advantages | Extremely stable, safe for sensitive skin and children, and effective immediately after application. | Lightweight texture, do not whiten the skin, and work perfectly under makeup. | Photostable, non-allergenic, and do not require frequent reapplication in the city. |
| Disadvantages | They may leave a white film, feel heavy, and slightly dry out the skin. | They may degrade under sunlight and can potentially irritate the eyes and sensitive skin. | They are more expensive to produce and more difficult to formulate in very matte textures. |
Dermatologist's tip: The best modern sunscreens are hybrid formulas. They combine mineral filters with modern organic filters, ensuring the broadest possible protection while maintaining an ultra-light, comfortable texture.
How to choose an SPF cream for your skin type?
A sunscreen will not do its job if you stop using it after a few days because it clogs your pores or causes excessive shine. The product must be precisely tailored to your skin’s needs.
SPF for acne-prone, oily, and combination skin
People with this skin type often worry about “heavy” formulas. Look for products labeled non-comedogenic, with a lightweight gel, fluid, or mattifying emulsion formula. Ingredients such as silica, niacinamide, or zinc PCA can help regulate sebum production throughout the day. Modern chemical and hybrid sunscreens work perfectly here without clogging the openings of the sebaceous glands.
Sunscreens for dry, dehydrated, and mature skin
Dry skin will love SPF creams with a rich, nourishing texture. The ideal product should contain additional moisturizing ingredients that help restore the skin barrier: hyaluronic acid, ceramides, squalane, and glycerin. For mature skin, simultaneous strong antioxidant protection is key—vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, or green tea extract enhances the sunscreen’s anti-aging effects.
Sun protection for skin with discoloration and visible capillaries
For skin prone to redness and broken capillaries, mineral sunscreens are an ideal choice (zinc oxide has a soothing and anti-inflammatory effect). When treating discoloration (sun-induced, hormonal, or post-acne), SPF 50+ and PA++++ are the absolute standard. It is worth choosing products enriched with vitamin C, tranexamic acid, or arbutin, which actively inhibit melanogenesis.
How much sunscreen should you apply to your face? (The two-finger method)
To make it easier to measure out the right amount of product every day, use the two-finger rule. Squeeze two thick lines of cream along the entire length of your index and middle fingers. This amount (approximately 1.25 ml) ensures that you cover your face, ears, and jawline with a layer providing real protection in line with the SPF factor stated by the manufacturer.
How to reapply SPF during the day—how to do it over makeup?
Sunscreens degrade under the influence of radiation, sweat, and mechanical touching of the face. If you are in full sun (at the beach, on a long walk), reapplication is necessary every 2–3 hours. In urban conditions, if you work in an office and your SPF is based on new-generation filters, reapplying before leaving work is entirely sufficient.
How can you reapply sunscreen over makeup? Modern solutions come to the rescue: SPF-filter mists, mineral powders with a high factor in a brush applicator, and special sponges (beauty blenders) that can be used to gently dab on a lightweight protective emulsion without disturbing the foundation applied earlier.
Facts and Myths About Sun Protection
Many misconceptions have arisen around the topic of SPF, and it is worth finally clarifying them using scientific facts.
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Myth: Using SPF causes a drastic vitamin D deficiency.
Fact: No sunscreen blocks 100% of UVB radiation. Even with strict use of SPF 50, enough radiation reaches the skin to synthesize cholecalciferol. Moreover, for optimal vitamin D production, exposing the forearms and legs for 15 minutes a day without sunscreen, outside peak sunlight hours, is sufficient.
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Myth: If my foundation has SPF 15 and my cream has SPF 30, my protection is SPF 45.
Fact: Sunscreens do not add up mathematically. Your protection is equal to the rating of the highest-rated product applied—in this case, SPF 30 (provided that both products are applied in the appropriate amounts).
Not Just the Face: Sun Protection for Hair and Lips
Facial skin isn't everything. UV rays also damage the hair structure by oxidizing melanin, leading to dryness, brittleness, and color fading (both natural and dyed). During exposure, it is worth using lightweight UV-filter mists for the hair and protecting the scalp (parting) with a stylish hat.
The lips are almost completely devoid of melanin and have a very thin epidermis, which makes them extremely susceptible to photodamage and chapping. A daily protective lip balm or lipstick with SPF 30 or 50 is an absolute essential in every handbag.
